In the time it took for the Olympics to come and go, I drove through West Panama in a fuel-efficient Toyota Yaris, flew in rickety domestic 12-seat planes, hopped water taxis, and hiked to remote ocean cabins and rainforest hostels on two bare feet.
I hadn’t been to Panama in two years, my first trip too brief to produce anything but an intense hunger for a return visit. This trip afforded me a full view of Panama’s inner workings and outward ambitions. The country is experiencing an overwhelming boom in real estate, infrastructure upgrades, and industrial expansion, with projects including:
- Expanding the Panama Canal
- Tripling the number of high rises in Panama City
- Roping the city with new avenues and elevated roadways
- Building bridges, zoning tourist projects, welcoming US retirees by the tour-bus load.
- Building an eco-tourism empire.
Of course, Panama’s lofty ambitions are dogged by the kinds of problems any place experiences when expansion outpaces planning. Rampant political corruption, inadequate policing and security, inconsistent services, and a pointless legal system contribute to a country run by dollars and the people who have them. Panama made me realize our Wild West was wild because of rapid expansion and development in mining towns and along trade routes, not because of a few bank robbers and horse thieves. Places like Honduras and Haiti are wild in ways that Costa Rica and the Bahamas are not - the former suffer internal chaos that stunts development, the latter have set their eyes on tourism and have not relented. Panama falls right in the middle.
Out of only a mild effort on my part, I came in contact with bribery and extortion, massive deforestation, wildlife poaching, totalitarian agro-business interests, drug trafficking, illegal fishing, sea turtle sanctuaries, livestock poisoning and its retribution, and some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable. And all this in just one town on the Costa Rican border.
Panama is as wild as any Wild West stories you may have heard, but its also a place where obliviousness and money can insulate you from any and all discomforts. Tourism is considered a national obligation for a prosperous future, and the country has only begun to believe that tourism can provide a better life for its people. It is this naivety that allows you extraordinary access to the country and its diversities. Even though the gringo military could not have exited the Canal Zone soon enough, Panamanians have not yet soured on the gringo tourists. Use this to your advantage and go. But do not be fooled by claims of Eco Tourism and wildlife preservation. The country touts this image prematurely. Much of the country is being destroyed from within and without, by a dangerous imbalance of rapid investment and superficial preservation.
Outside of the Bolivians I met last year, Panama has probably the nicest people I’ve ever met anywhere. The local traditions, especially in the supremely patriotic Herrera Province, are unspoiled and inspiring. It is incredibly safe for tourists to travel there and so much of the country, as I will show you in pictures and stories this week, is still inaccessible and unscathed enough to provide for unique traveling experiences.